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Know the daily challenge route name/time of day/weather combination without starting the challenge


Mohd_AAAA

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One of the hardest aspect about earning the "Fire Up That Car... Again" is not knowing the route location/name/time of day/weather combination and having to start the challenge without any practice and doing it blindly. While the game is currently active trophy hunting-wise as it's part of the monthly PS Plus free games, the members of this community are thankfully posting this information in the other thread but once the game dies a bit, you'll be all alone. 

 

With this tip you can know the combination of route location, name, time of day and weather without having to actually start the challenge.

I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere but if it's, then my apology but it's worth mentioning again.

 

So how do you do it?

When you enter the challenge, a loading screen will pop up, it's an aerial shot of the route with the route length, elevation change, time of day, weather, surface type and surface degradation. 

If you close the game/application during this loading screen, you will not be penalised with a DNF (did not finish) and you can enter the challenge again when you start the game back up.

So enter the challenge and on the loading screen gather the important information (route location/name/time of day/weather) and then close the application/game. Go to time trial and practice this combination until you're comfortable and consistent with your time.

 

Additional tip:

This might be obvious but if the Group B (4WD) daily challenge is a community daily challenge and not a special stage, then you're in luck.

You can know the exact time you need to beat in order to get the tier 1 in the challenge leaderboard by going to Dirt Rally 2.0 official website then community challenges tab.

Here's the link: https://dirtrally2.com/community-events

As you can see, you can look up all the entries in the daily community challenge.

 

What needs to be done:

1. So wait for some time to pass on the challenge, ideally more than 12 hours.

2. Look up the total number of entrants by going to the last page.

3. Take that number and multiply it by 10% and you'll get a number.

4. This number is the entrants that divides tier 1 and tier 2 and his time is the cutoff point for tier 1.

5. So look up this entrants time and aim for a time better than him/her.

6. In general, the cutoff time increases as times goes by, so you'll be safe if you beat his/her time.

Example:

Total number of entrants is 7000 people.

7000 x 10% = 700

Look up the 700th person on the leaderboard and aim for a time better than him/her.

 

Combine the two tips together by practicing the stage with the right combination and aim for the time you looked up. Once you're consistent, go for the actual challenge.

The only disadvantage is that the car in time trial is fully upgraded afaik while the car in the daily challenge depends on how many engine upgrades you unlocked.

You will be slower in the daily challenge compared to time trial if you don't have the full upgrades, so keep this in mind.

Generally you want at least the 2nd engine upgrade to be competitive in the daily challenge and have an actual shot in being in the top 10%.

Now is a good time to earn this trophy as the game is very active with it being part of PS Plus free games.

 

Hopefully these tips help more people to achieve this trophy.

Good luck to you all.

 

Extra:

Today's daily community challenge 3/5/2020 (May 3rd) information:

Location: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

Stage name: Elsthorpe Sprint Reverse

Time: 13:51

Weather: Clear

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4 hours ago, HaserPL said:

you could always make another psn account, give it a shot and practice once and then drive on your account.

No you can't, at least not without playing for quite some time on your dummy account.

 

Unlike the first Dirt Rally, you use your own car in the daily challenges.

In order to participate in the Group B (4WD) challenge, you have to own a car from that category. And you don't start the game with one, you have to buy one and the cheapest costs around 150k credit and you start with 0 credit. 

 

Secondly, there's no fast and brain-dead way to earn credits like in Dirt Rally 1. You either take part in the daily/weekly/monthly challenges or play the single player.

 

And since you start the game with only an H1 car and an RX 1600s car and the rewards for the dailies range from 30k to 60k for the top player, you realistically looking at spending a couple of weeks playing dailies on your dummy account just to buy a car from Group B to take part in the challenge. It's just not feasible.

 

This strategy was helpful in Dirt Rally 1 but not here. 

 

I can't comment on the prize money for the single player races because I didn't play those. 

 

Edited by Mohd_AAAA
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Bro, just do the damn event and try your best time. You're putting way too much effort and thought into something that's not really that hard, you don't need any upgrades to be competitive or make it into tier 1, just drive decently and you should be good.

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19 minutes ago, Mohd_AAAA said:

No you can't, at least not without playing for quite some time on your dummy account.

 

Unlike the first Dirt Rally, you use your own car in the daily challenges.

In order to participate in the Group B (4WD) challenge, you have to own a car from that category. And you don't start the game with one, you have to buy one and the cheapest costs around 150k credit and you start with 0 credit. 

 

Secondly, there's no fast and brain-dead way to earn credits like in Dirt Rally 1. You either take part in the daily/weekly/monthly challenges or play the single player.

 

And since you start the game with only an H1 car and an RX 1600s car and the rewards for the dailies range from 30k to 60k for the top player, you realistically looking at spending a couple of weeks on your dummy account just to buy a car from Group B to take part in the challenge. It's just not feasible.

 

This strategy was helpful in Dirt Rally 1 but not here. 

 

I can't comment on the price money for the single player races because I didn't play those. 

 

No mate, you are wrong. I used my second psn account and using the 2 default cars i participated in the leftomst event, which are rally events in which you can participate with any car you want as many times you want. For 6 stages per rally, it takes you 40 minutes at most to complete and you get around 50K. I did 4 rallies with the default cars and in a couple of hours i was able to buy the Audi Quattro.  

1 minute ago, x7eight said:

Bro, just do the damn event and try your best time. You're putting way too much effort and thought into something that's not really that hard, you don't need any upgrades to be competitive or make it into tier 1, just drive decently and you should be good.

It's not that easy mate. Well, at least for me. By doing it blindly i was able to get around 12%-15% every time. The first time i practiced the stage a couple of times, i was able to get in the top 3%. That couple of rounds saved me that precious seconds to get from 15% to top 3%. 

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The other thing about this trophy is there is the opportunity to be quite lucky and obtain the trophy from a delta daily (I forget what they are called in this game). These are community events that only have two tiers. So if you check each day you may be lucky enough to be able to finish an event in the top 50% and get the trophy. In my time with the game I saw this happen twice with cars from Group B 4WD so keep checking everyday and you might get one.

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Multiplying by 10% (0.10) is the same as dividing by 10. 

 

What's the best tuning setup for the Audi here? It handles like a cat on catnip, and once I hit any obstacle on the shoulder the car is either dead or wont stop pinballing. It's a turd in this game with the same aerodynamics as a turd. 

 

Speaking of aerodynamics, no tuning options for downforce in this game at all seems like a huge oversight since it is the thing keeping the car from just flying off the track or hitting a hill on 3 meter wide dirt road.

 

Practicing on the course seems to help but it still isn't there me

 

Top time is 3:09.172. Top time for a controller is 3:16.384, and second for controller is 3:24.108

It's up to 4232 entrants.

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I used the following setup i found on the internet by user pol.home (all credits go to him) for gravel stages and the car was much more controllable. Hope it helps:

 

Alignment- leave default

Brakes -
braking force -3012.00 N-m (lower by one notch to the left if too sensitive for you)
Brake bias- 50%

Differential
Front Lsd driving lock- 36%
Front lsd braking lock-20%
Front lsd preload- 0.00N-m
Centre viscous diff - 16kgf-m/100rpm. (Move the slider to the right if you find the car too loose on rotation)
Centre torque bias- 55%
Rear lsd driving lock- 50%
Rear lsd braking lock - 45%
Rear lsd preload - 0.00 N-m

Gearing

Gears 1-4 all default

5th gear- 1.024

Final drive - 0.207 (140mph+ for fast stages, lower as required)

Damping - leave default

Springs
Front ride height-8mm
Front spring rate- 84.27 N/mm
Front anti roll bar- 15.00 N/mm
Rear ride height- 10.00 mm
Rear spring rate- 71.6 N/mm
Rear anti roll bar- 13.50 N/mm

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23 minutes ago, ZZ383 said:

Multiplying by 10% (0.10) is the same as dividing by 10. 

 

What's the best tuning setup for the Audi here? It handles like a cat on catnip, and once I hit any obstacle on the shoulder the car is either dead or wont stop pinballing. It's a turd in this game with the same aerodynamics as a turd. 

 

Speaking of aerodynamics, no tuning options for downforce in this game at all seems like a huge oversight since it is the thing keeping the car from just flying off the track or hitting a hill on 3 meter wide dirt road.

 

Practicing on the course seems to help but it still isn't there me

 

Top time is 3:09.172. Top time for a controller is 3:16.384, and second for controller is 3:24.108

It's up to 4232 entrants.

Where do you see these wheel  vs controller times? 

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3 hours ago, karpathoulas667 said:

I used the following setup i found on the internet by user pol.home (all credits go to him) for gravel stages and the car was much more controllable. Hope it helps:

 

Alignment- leave default

Brakes -
braking force -3012.00 N-m (lower by one notch to the left if too sensitive for you)
Brake bias- 50%

Differential
Front Lsd driving lock- 36%
Front lsd braking lock-20%
Front lsd preload- 0.00N-m
Centre viscous diff - 16kgf-m/100rpm. (Move the slider to the right if you find the car too loose on rotation)
Centre torque bias- 55%
Rear lsd driving lock- 50%
Rear lsd braking lock - 45%
Rear lsd preload - 0.00 N-m

Gearing

Gears 1-4 all default

5th gear- 1.024

Final drive - 0.207 (140mph+ for fast stages, lower as required)

Damping - leave default

Springs
Front ride height-8mm
Front spring rate- 84.27 N/mm
Front anti roll bar- 15.00 N/mm
Rear ride height- 10.00 mm
Rear spring rate- 71.6 N/mm
Rear anti roll bar- 13.50 N/mm

 

Cheers for the settings, made the car handle way different (in a good way) and managed to make almost a T1 time without practicing.

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I've mentioned this previously, the most difficult thing about this trophy is you only get one shot at it. Yes yes there's plenty of other harder challenges in the DLC but you can rinse and repeat them 100 times until you get it right. With this it takes 1 spin of the wheel, 1 clip to the tail of the car, 1 bump at front of the car... and your tier 1 goal is OVER. Anybody can make one minor error at any given time, particularly if the course take 3+ minutes. The Audi feels slippy even with the best tuning applied to the car, whilst the majority of other players can chose vehicles that handle much better. It is beyond me how anyone can claim this trophy is relatively easy, it's hard as nails to finish in the top 10%.

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1 minute ago, whittle181 said:

I've mentioned this previously, the most difficult thing about this trophy is you only get one shot at it. Yes yes there's plenty of other harder challenges in the DLC but you can rinse and repeat them 100 times until you get it right. With this it takes 1 spin of the wheel, 1 clip to the tail of the car, 1 bump at front of the car... and your tier 1 goal is OVER. Anybody can make one minor error at any given time, particularly if the course take 3+ minutes. The Audi feels slippy even with the best tuning applied to the car, whilst the majority of other players can chose vehicles that handle much better. It is beyond me how anyone can claim this trophy is relatively easy, it's hard as nails to finish in the top 10%.

It's true mate. I got the trophy yesterday in Finland stage. I managed to get on time trials 4:03. But while on the actual stage, i was really stressed. My hands were numb and sweat, my heart was pounding and got "only" 4:11 which placed me on top 3%. All the times before i did what you said. One minor error somewhere (unavoidable with such a hard to control car) which was enough to place me around 15%. The stage is wasted and you have to wait days to retry. Which makes you even more stressed. But keep trying, keep practicing and you ll be there.

 

My advices:

1) Use the tuning i mentioned before on gravel stages. It works wonders. Of course it helps to have the car fully upgraded (both engine and parts)

2) When checking the leaderboards, dont go for the 10% limit. Go for the 8%. It happens every day to be at 11% after 5 hours and end up 13% at the end of the day. And check the 8% limit after a considerable amount of hours, lets say 6 hours after it has started, so the limit has settled.

3) While practicing ( i did it on my alt account), go for the 8% limit or even better. Because in the actual run (me at least) you have to go much slower and careful.

4) I got the DLC. This way i was able to try FInland more times than the non-DLC players. Because Finland was available to everyone yesterday as a promo event. So most of the people had only one try, i had many more.

5) The harder the stage, the more chances you have. For example, its easier to get it in Argentina or Finland, than Poland or USA.And thats because more people screw up.

6) Be confident and dont get dissapointed. Apart from the 1% of elite players, all the others had numerous tries to get it.

7) If everything else fails, just wait for a Delta event. Though i ve been playing for 3 weeks, only 3 of them appeared and none of them was for 4WD.

 

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I tried the Group B Challenge from yesterday, but best time was still 30 seconds from the worst time in Tier 1. I did use the settings suggested by @karpathoulas667. That was helpful, but it's all about getting control over this fast car. There is a huge difference between the cars you start with and this powerfull Audi. I need to get more experienced with the handling, so I can drive a clean timetrail like anyone else. 

 

Usually I skip simulation racers due to the lack of time to invest in it and also the patience needed to fail over and over again, but with the game being free on PlayStation Plus, I decided to give it a shot. I might even buy the Gold Edition to have the full experience since it's on sale now.

 

Btw, I think I saw another Group B challenge ingame today, but can't find it on dirtrally2.0 challenges page. 

 

In the other topic it says it's the same track as yesterday but the forward direction

Edited by ConAir
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On 03/05/2020 at 6:34 PM, karpathoulas667 said:

I used the following setup i found on the internet by user pol.home (all credits go to him) for gravel stages and the car was much more controllable. Hope it helps:

 

Alignment- leave default

Brakes -
braking force -3012.00 N-m (lower by one notch to the left if too sensitive for you)
Brake bias- 50%

Differential
Front Lsd driving lock- 36%
Front lsd braking lock-20%
Front lsd preload- 0.00N-m
Centre viscous diff - 16kgf-m/100rpm. (Move the slider to the right if you find the car too loose on rotation)
Centre torque bias- 55%
Rear lsd driving lock- 50%
Rear lsd braking lock - 45%
Rear lsd preload - 0.00 N-m

Gearing

Gears 1-4 all default

5th gear- 1.024

Final drive - 0.207 (140mph+ for fast stages, lower as required)

Damping - leave default

Springs
Front ride height-8mm
Front spring rate- 84.27 N/mm
Front anti roll bar- 15.00 N/mm
Rear ride height- 10.00 mm
Rear spring rate- 71.6 N/mm
Rear anti roll bar- 13.50 N/mm


Thanks! 
Btw these settings are a lot different to the ones proposed by the other guy in the YouTube video with setups for the Audi for all stages. 
I will try these and see if it gets any better.

 

I lost Tier 1 in yesterday’s daily challenge in New Zealand by less than 2 seconds. I think if I wasn’t so stressed (heart beating, hands shaking) it would have gone much better.

I believe if there was a console only leaderboard it would have been much easier...

 

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3 hours ago, SuperArrowRabbit said:

Just find a website that can tell you the percentage of the events, and can let you roughly estimate the time to achieve Tier 1.

 

Indeed helpful!!

 

 

Here

 

 

 

Share your website with us, if there is one

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5 hours ago, RapiDuS said:


Thanks! 
Btw these settings are a lot different to the ones proposed by the other guy in the YouTube video with setups for the Audi for all stages. 
I will try these and see if it gets any better.

 

I lost Tier 1 in yesterday’s daily challenge in New Zealand by less than 2 seconds. I think if I wasn’t so stressed (heart beating, hands shaking) it would have gone much better.

I believe if there was a console only leaderboard it would have been much easier...

 

You are right on both points. FIrst of all, on a failed attempt, i was 15% overall, but 7% on PS4 users. I guess the PC guys have more advanced equipemnt (wheels, screens, frame rate) or they re just better gamers :P

 

Regarding the tuning, i tried the ones in the video, before the one i mentioned. My times were worse than the default! I guess the guy that made them was a pro and/or these tunings are suited for more advanced players or maybe it works better with a wheel. I dont know. Try the ones I posted and let me know. Again, they werent mine, I found them on a Steam community site and didnt know if it allowed to post it as it is...

Edited by karpathoulas667
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On 03/05/2020 at 4:34 PM, karpathoulas667 said:

I used the following setup i found on the internet by user pol.home (all credits go to him) for gravel stages and the car was much more controllable. Hope it helps:

 

Alignment- leave default

Brakes -
braking force -3012.00 N-m (lower by one notch to the left if too sensitive for you)
Brake bias- 50%

Differential
Front Lsd driving lock- 36%
Front lsd braking lock-20%
Front lsd preload- 0.00N-m
Centre viscous diff - 16kgf-m/100rpm. (Move the slider to the right if you find the car too loose on rotation)
Centre torque bias- 55%
Rear lsd driving lock- 50%
Rear lsd braking lock - 45%
Rear lsd preload - 0.00 N-m

Gearing

Gears 1-4 all default

5th gear- 1.024

Final drive - 0.207 (140mph+ for fast stages, lower as required)

Damping - leave default

Springs
Front ride height-8mm
Front spring rate- 84.27 N/mm
Front anti roll bar- 15.00 N/mm
Rear ride height- 10.00 mm
Rear spring rate- 71.6 N/mm
Rear anti roll bar- 13.50 N/mm


Using this setup worked well for me thanks. Do you happen to know the best tuning settings for Tarmac surfaces?

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