Tips to go faster (Getting those license gold!)

[iP4rKzY95]

Hello everyone!

 

I'm someone who has no idea how real life bikes work, but I've found out how to go faster especially getting those time trials and track test GOLD MEDALS. 

 

Here is my set up,

 

Bike Set up> Suspension:

 

Preload

Front: 1 to the left

Rear: 1 to the right

 

Spring Hardness

Front: 1 to the left

Rear: completely off 0 

 

Front Shock Absorber

Rebound: 1 to the left

Compression: 1 to the left

 

Rear Shock Absorber

Rebound: Completely off 0 

Compression: Max 10+ to the right

 

Bike Set up>Calibration:

 

Calibration > aggressive

Braking > aggressive

 

Transmission>Final Ratio: Fully Max 10+

 

Riding Aids

 

Physics Simulation Level: Advanced or Realistic 

Transmission: (up to you. you probably go even faster too if you're using manual.)

Auto brakes: off (must be off, because it will slows you down automatically when entering a corner. It's important to hit those apex perfectly)

Joint brakes: off

ABS: on 

Off-track help: off

Tuck-in: automatic (or manual, up to you)

 

Start the race... to access the bike set up by using the left and right d-pad arrows (it's below the speedometer) and turning all of them off. 

 

While using the bike (live tuning):

 

AW: 1 

EB: 1 or 2 

TCS: 1 or 2 (Play around these)

 

• Traction Control System (TCS)  - Is a system that prevents rear tyre slide out when accelerating. It cuts engine power down to prevent high side. The higher the setting the more power is cut down.
• Anti Wheelie (AW) - It prevents front of the bike to move up when accelerating. As a result it cuts engine power to prevent front rising from ground. The more you set the bigger effect.
• Engine Brake (EB) - It sets how much engine slows down the bike when you release throttle. When its slippery on the track or rear tyre is used up your rear wheel might start to slide due to too high engine braking. Its not always good to set EB to 4 (highest braking). It makes rear tyre use up and heat up faster. (Credit: from Steam user: KG_03).

 

For time trial...

Upgrading your bike helps. Hover to your bike when selecting, press square and go to customize. Change your everything to your desire. 

 

Just keep practicing those tracks and hit those apex lines early. I was able to save 2-3 seconds with this set up. Macau, Virginia gave me a lot of trouble, so it will work on RIDE3 as well since they're pretty much the same game. I hope it helps!  😀🏍️

Edited December 14, 2023 by iP4rKzY95
Corrected my guide/set up that works for me. hopefully it helps others too.

[Shmeefly]

A lot of people that aren’t so skilled are gonna struggle with turning off all the assists. Telling ppl to drop TC down to 0 doesn’t help most ppl no offence.

it’s not that hard to begin with, as with any racer, all you really gotta do is learn the tracks, once you’ve learned them, your pretty much set for all racers, and just tweaking driving style depending on what your driving/riding.

 

With Ride 4, all you need to do is turn the TC from 3 to 2, as you lose a lot of bike acceleration with TC on, you can drop lower with lower power bikes but asking casuals to drop TCS to 0 while riding a T12 Massimo in the rain isn’t helping anyone later in the game lol, dropping it to 2 will allow casuals to continue controlling the bike consistently and you’ll have enough speed to gold everything, the only tip anyone really needs with races/endurance is to ride defence if your struggling with the crazy AI speeds, once your in front you can ride much slower than the AI and stay 1st as long as your covering the corners, just block the inside line and the AI don’t think to try and take you on the outside, it’s AI after all, and AI is dumb.

And remember, Ride gives rewinds in races

With time trials and track days, just learn them, can’t really help other than say practice, track days allows for rewinds if you mess up a corner, and time trials just needs practice. If your able to gold 1 event. Your able to gold them all

Edited December 7, 2023 by Shmeefly